Listen, I know there are many regional dishes that are sacrosanct. I would never try to make them for the natives. I would celebrate and devour them made by the descendants of the originators.
On the other hand, I just read some bad reviews of a vegetarian pozole from people who didn't try to make it, just said that it was wrong because of the lack of pork. They said it wasn't pozole. Well, it wasn't. The French Laundry's oysters and pearls doesn't have real pearls. The coffee and donuts there are a far cry from traditional. This is America. We play with our food. Vegetarian pozole is, yes, a Frankensteinization of the original, and lacks its soul. But it has its own American soul. It's a different thing. It's what chef's do. You find a recipe, steal it, and disguise it to make it through customs. Also, to make it fit your style and palate; this isn't disrespect, it's homage.
I also found a Green Goddess aioli today that would start a riot in Provence. Maybe the judicious use of quotation marks would calm things down. It's not aioli, it's "aioli" - a vaguely similar but entirely different thing. I mean, we get that vege hamburgers shouldn't be expected to have meat, and that ladyfingers can be made without amputation.
Anyway, I'm working on recipes for "aioli" and "pozole." My plan is to leave the pork out of the pozole to bother the Mexican purists, and making it with ham stock to annoy the vegetarians. Stay tuned.
And as far as cultural intolerance to playing with tradition, I should add that it's usually pretty playful. And serious. Kidding on the square.
Your public demands more posts! Posts, Chez What, posts!!
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